Monkey House

Nothing much to report here.

The toilet we installed for our new powder room is cracked already. Hairline, but enough to be a worry and for a few wee droplets of water to get through. Gotta replace this before it becomes an actual problem.

Possible culprits?

1) over-tightening the lugs securing the toilet
2) the toilet always felt a bit tippy… maybe the bottom was uneven to begin with; either way, will make sure next toilet doesn’t exhibit this problem.

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In other news, the built-in isn’t quite done yet. There’s still one more piece of lumber to paint tomorrow, and then pictures the day after.

Greg

I seem to be talking mostly about home reno on this blog. I assure you, there is a baby on the way. Due June 7, 2009, and I couldn’t be happier. Er, so, more about renovation!

The room that has become the nursery has a very large closet. Too large to have all the space wasted with just a long pole for hanging things on. Nosir, this sucker needed some shelving and/or drawers.

It had been suggested that with such a large closet, you could easily put a dresser in there. True, but a dresser isn’t very fun or very impressive. We’re some pretty skilled folks, so we figured, “Why not just make a built-in storage solution?” We like our Ikea Pax wardrobe, and were thinking about repurposing its drawers, but at the end of the day they were just a bit TOO wide at ~90cm each (with cabinet and hardware included, a total of 100cm width). So, we purchased 4 narrower “Komplete” drawers in white (“Komplete” is the Pax drawer/shelving line), and some sale-priced white Melamine to make a cab with.

Should be finished tomorrow, and pics will follow.

Greg

Finally it’s done.

Such a small room… but myriad problems. Here’s the final room. I’m sure it’s even humbler than some of you thought it would be.

As far as I can remember, here were the problems we had to overcome:

1. Drywall patching in 3 spots; getting it level and smooth was made difficult by the mesh tape. No more mesh tape for me for patch jobs.
2. Removing old baseboards… tile (added after the baseboards by previous owners) had trapped the finishing nails between tile and wall.
3. New baseboards. Not REALLY problematic, but walls are not straight!
4. Removing old vanity. It had been built in-place, so removal required some hacking and ripping in strategic (so as to not break plumbing) ways
5. Tiles (added after the original vanity by previous owners) were cut to fit the old vanity… new one not quite a good fit
6. Putting new vanity in required dealing with plumbing coming from 2 different areas (floor and wall) instead of just one (floor OR wall). Had to hack vanity apart inside.
7. Corner was not 90 degrees; had to use a flap sander attachment on a grinder to get vanity top to fit
8. Integral backsplash had a curve; needed to “carve” out a recess for the sidesplash tile
9. Broke a light fixture shade; luckily turning it the right way hides the broken side perfectly
10. Almost electrocuted myself changing the GFCI despite shutting off 3 relevant breakers. Next time I do a GFCI I will just turn off the whole house
11. Drainpipe was not quite a fit. Had to completely redo the drain
12. Braided water hoses kept “pushing” vanity top out of place. Had to cut pipes to be a perfect fit
13. Repurposed the faucet. It used thin copper pipe rather than having threaded attachments for the hose. needed to add adapter
14. Painting over drywall patches produced uneven texture; needed to repaint 1 wall entirely
15. Hiding the shims at the bottom of the vanity required something other than quarter-round. Used what was meant to be a doorstop strip as trim. Measured incorrectly more than once and ended up needing to splice a piece together! But it worked properly
16. Random leaky pipes needing tightening/re-attachment

The last problem is our toilet… not sure why but sometimes the overflow wants to kick in. But nothing seems to be overflowing. Gotta keep my eye on it.

Greg

I’m a pretty big champion of good customer service. To me, that’s more important than whether a company is considered “the man” or not. If Home Depot gives good customer service, they deserve to be at the top of the heap.

Today’s experience made me wonder:

a) should I only go to Home Depot on weeknights?
b) is it a matter of departments? (ie. some departments are more properly staffed than others)

Last night we bought a chandelier. Got it home and realized that it must have been a returned purchase… the electric wires had already been cut short. This was not going to do for us, so I went back to return it. After completing the return, I proceeded to look for two things– a length of chain for making a flap stop, and a replacement chandelier.

Could I find an associate? Not a chance. I must have stood around and/or wandered looking for someone for 45 minutes. Aggravating to say the least. At least once, I almost put aside self-consciousness and yelled aloud “AAARRRGGGHHH! SOMEBODY ASSIST ME!!!!” But I refrained.

Decided on my own replacement chandelier (they had no more stock of the exact one I had returned), gave up on the length of chain, and went to the checkout. As they usually do, checkout guy asks, “Did you find everything you were looking for today?” “No,” I replied, “I could find neither the chandelier I was looking for, nor a piece of hardware I needed, nor even an associate. I found almost nothing I was looking for today.” Surprised, he asks, “would you like me to find someone if you’re not in a rush?” “Sure,” I reply. After getting on the phone he indicates to me, “apparently there are associates in hardware as we speak, or we can wait for them to call back to the cash here.”

I elected to just go find these alleged associates. Nobody. Not a soul. Stood around for another 10 minutes with nobody around. Wandered. No luck. Went over to lighting and finally found someone there, which resulted in me deciding against the replacement chandelier I had chosen.

Walked out with nothing. 1.25 hours of basically picking my nose waiting for someone.

Which brings me back to my original point…

a) I think weekends are probably bad for Home Depot… too many people, too few associates. At least on weeknights you can usually find someone, or at least it seems. I don’t know for sure, but that’s what it seems like to me.

b) Whenever I’ve had excellent service there (and I have), it has been in a more specialized area like plumbing or flooring. You can’t just be any shmoe and speak intelligently about plumbing, so they probably put knowledgable people in there. Ditto for flooring to a certain extent. But lighting? Most people can pick up the basics of lighting in moments. And hardware? Maybe the staff just doesn’t care about that section.. who wants to spend the evening helping a customer find nails and mundane crap like that?

Bwah. I remain frustrated. At least the lighting associate found an identical unit at another location, where I’ll go to pick it up later.

In other news, the powder room is done. Pictures to follow when the final touches are totally complete (dusting and a good cleanin’).

You would think a powder room would be easy. Small. Only 3 fixtures (lights, sink and toilet).

But no.

It’s always something.

So we finally got the vanity cabinet and top all sorted out to sit in the non-90-degree corner, finally patched over our bumpy spots in the wall to (at last) produce a smooth surface, etc.

Then it was time to install the vanity top and plumbing once and for all.

Now, we’re not dumb… or at least not completely. We had mocked everything up, and felt that we did not need to redo the drain pipe. It was a tight fit, but a fit. However, after caulking up the vanity cabinet (using caulking as adhesive is not only the manufacturer’s instructions but also smart if you ever plan on taking the top off) and putting it in place we realized it wasn’t staying in the corner properly.

Only real possibility… our “tight” fit was a bit too much of a cheat after all. That 2mm we needed to “force” the pipes into alignment was 2mm too much. The only thing to do?

Off to HOME DEPOT AGAIN! (of course)

For the umpteenth time there, I was once again very lucky to find someone knowledgable. Y’know, I don’t care what anyone says about the “big box store” that is Home Depot… almost every time I go there I get excellent advice. Within minutes the guy had loaded me up with the parts I would need (PVC plumbing is cheap, so I decided to get all new stuff) and gave me the only lesson you really need.

The finished job (note that the P-trap (#3″ is symmetrical in reality… but the pipe coming out of the wall and the drainpipe coming from the sink are not at the same front-to-back depth):

All done

1. threaded er.. thingy… Coupler? for securing the chrome sink drain into the drain pipe
2. length of PVC pipe (1.5″ diameter? Whatever the standard is…) for this part and also #5
3. new P-Trap
4. elbow with nifty swivelly ball-in-cup thing for a wee bit of wiggle if needed… I don’t think I needed this fancy one; the measuring and installing is so easy you could use a regular elbow; but it was my choice
5. just for the purposes of the illustration, another length cut from the length listed in #2
6. coupler
7. PVC plumbing glue

So, I didn’t take a “before” picture, but look at the above and imagine: there was no #6, just a straight length of piping leading to an elbow like #4. So, the idea is to hack off to the left of the old elbow, going far enough to make room for both the #6 coupler and a length of PVC piping like #5. That’s the important bit… all other parts are more or less out of your control or arbitrary… the key is the length of piping at #5. Here’s how to get it right.

First, brief instructions on how to glue pieces of plumbing together:

1. Use some sandpaper to scuff the inside of the “female” parts to help with adhesion. (what I mean is the inside part of, for example, part #1… the pipe (#2) slips inside #1 and is held there with glue.)
2. scuff 0.75″ or so (it doesn’t really matter if you go more) around the outside of the piece being inserted.
3. Put a generous amount of glue around the inside of the female part and the outside of the scuffed end of the pipe being fitted
4. Push the pipe into the part you wish to bond to, and give it a quarter-turn or so (while still pushing in) to ensure positive contact and 360 degrees of glue

You’ve got about 10 seconds before it’s bonded!!! Luckily, it’s not rocket surgery, so it’s hard to mess up. If you do mess up, PVC is cheap, just get more.

Here’s the steps I took in measuring and gluing, remembering that the key is the length in diagram part #5:

1. Cut piping part #2 to length. The length is arbitrary. Just make it so that a decent length of the chrome drainpipe goes down into it and you have lots of up/down movement for positioning the assembly
2. Fit parts #1, 2, 3, and 4 together with NO GLUE. I will call this whole chunk the “P-trap assembly”
3. Put part #6 in place
4. by sliding the P-trap assembly up and down while pivoting the elbow (#4), eyeball the correct alignment of #4 with #6– the idea is to visualize where #5 will go once you cut it
5. tighten everything up so that it doesn’t move, but don’t go silly tight
6. measure from the edge of #6 to the edge of #4, which will be the EXPOSED length of #5
7. take the “exposed length” of #5 and add 1.5″. This makes up the “inside” length, since each fitting will only allow 0.75″ of entry. So if the “exposed” #5 is 3″, you need to cut a length of piping at 4.5″
8. cut the PVC piping to length
9. put this new length into the “mockup” and make sure it aligns the way you eyeballed it. Loosen everything up a bit, shuffle it all into place, and tighten. You should not have to “force” a single part of it. If #5 is the wrong length, re-cut

Now to get’er done for real:

10. Glue #1, 2, 3 in any order.
11. Glue #4, 5, 6 to each other in any order (but NOT to the original piping yet!)
12. Do a quick mini-mockup again with the 2 now-glued assemblies. It’s too late to salvage glued parts, but new ones are cheap if you’ve goofed up.
13. With the mockup still in place and all perfect, draw a horizontal line with white grease pencil or a silver marker or even a pencil (graphite is shiny) through the original pipe and also #6. When it’s time to glue, you will re-align the parts using this line!
14. Glue the #6,5,4 assembly to the piping, using the line you just made to recreate the proper alignment
15. Slide the #1,2,3 assembly up onto the chrome pipe, until you make positive connection between #3 and #4. Tighten the connection between #3 and #4.
16. tighten #1 onto the chrome pipe

Done!

Too much detail for a simple job? Maybe! Problem-solver types who enjoy puzzles could probably recreate the above steps quite easily and it wouldn’t seem like nearly as many line items. But some people learn with linear written instructions; hopefully this helps them!

Greg